![]() ![]() ![]() So far though I have not seen any yellowing or haziness because I am using the right product and not playing bathroom cabinet scientist. When I had half the millage I could shine my lenses to look like glass but many tiny pock holes latter I have to go a bit aggressive. If you don't know how to use these diminishing polishes then you will have a not so great result. What makes a good polish is the uniformity of its partials and its workable time. I use Zaino's plastic polish which is formulated with the right size silica to be diminished progressively as you polish. This guy knows his detailing and he was the one who posted the link for the wet sanding which is now included in the library. That might also explain why detail shop had better result than you, you probably used hand while they probably used machine. That's why I use machine and pads instead of hand. Diminishing abrasives require quite vigorous rubbing to be done right. That could explain why detail shop had better result and why you are getting haze.Īnother cause for haze is diminishing abrasives in PlastX not being broken down properly/completely. This will prevent polishing/scratching the surrounding areas during the headlight polishing. Use blue tape and tape off the surrounding areas around the headlight. Let the headlights air dry for at least 5-10 minutes so the panels are very dry. Using PlastX after using something else and still having issues quick indicates residue of old chemicals is not being removed. Use compressed air or a blower to get all the water dried off. Use only products developed for headlight polishing.Ĭlick to expand.Considering you are getting return way way too quick I wonder what was done to headlights / what was used prior to using PlastX because what you are describing are symptoms of two things: outgassing of chemicals and/or polish not being broken down properly. They leave "fillers" / chemicals on the surface that turn yellow/brown/whatever when exposed to outside elements over time. Part of yellowing you are getting is due to (wrong) product itself. Or apply protectant.ģ) To those that use Brasso, toothpaste, etc: You should not be using these products nor spread bad advice that these products can be used. So when you clean do not go too aggressive and make sure you use product that has protectants in it. Just like every unprotected plastic does when left outside. ![]() Once you remove this layer (by going more aggressive than case calls for, like sanding) it is bye bye protection, plastic will yellow much faster. Purpose is to protect plastic, let it last longer. Clearly spelled out on Meguiar's site.Ģ) Yes, many headlights nowadays have a final layer in them that is an UV coating. It does have (polymer) protectant in it but is primarily cleaner/polish. ![]() Each headlight will use about 1/4 of that bottle to ensure the correct amount of coating for lasting protection.ġ0) Let the Graphene Headlight Coating cure on the surface for 1-2 hours before the introduction of water and 24 hours before the headlight is washed.Few quick notes because I see this popping up over and over and over again:ġ) PlastX is not "like wax". The Graphene Headlight Coating comes in a 15 mL bottle. Allow the first coat to adhere to the headlight for one minute, then apply a second coat using the same method. Ensure complete coverage on the entire headlight, paying attention to the edges and and hard to reach areas or contours. Our proprietary Graphene Headlight Coating is designed to easily fill 3000 grit sanding marks.Ĩ) Once the headlight has been wiped down and been completely dried, it is time to apply the coating.ĩ) Apply a thick line of Graphene Headlight Coating (Step 2) to your coating applicator and wipe onto the headlight in straight lines in the same direction as your sanding marks. This sanding step may take the longest (5-10 minutes) because you want the final sanding marks to be as fine as possible. Rinse the headlight clean and dry it off with a microfiber towel.Ħ) Using the same exact procedure that was used in the first step, sand the headlight with the provided 2000 grit sanding disc, also achieving a uniform sanding pattern in straight lines.ħ) Lastly, complete the sanding process the same as the first two steps but finishing with the provided 3000 grit sanding disc. Once a uniform sanding pattern is achieved, it is time to move onto the second sanding disc. This process will take about 5 minutes with the 1500 grit sanding disc depending on the severity of the damage. Make sure the headlight continues to stay wet during the entire sanding process. In straight lines start sanding the headlight with light to moderate pressure to remove the damaged material on the headlight. Spray the sanding disc with water as well as spraying the headlight down with a liberal amount of water. 5) Starting with one of the 1500 grit sanding discs in your kit, adhere it to the provided hand sander. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |